- Made from a special alloy of tool steel
- WS2 ‘polyphobic’ nano coating
- ‘One to rule them all’
The Nozzle X is a ‘One to rule them all’ nozzle, made from a special alloy of tool steel, creating a nozzle that is immensely hard, but also maintains its hardness at high temperatures without softening.
A layer of hard, slick nickel plating has also been added which provides a fantastic balance of cost and wear resistance. The cherry on the top? A WS2 ‘polyphobic’ nano coating - no longer will you find hot molten polymers sticking to your nozzle.
Benefits of the WS2 ‘polyphobic’ nano-coating
- • Less build up, particularly of sticky and filled materials to the nozzle cone.
- • Improved first layer reliability; the slick coating has a reduced tendency to ‘drag’ material, particularly at sharp corners where tracks can peel up.
- • Slicker, smooth top solid layers with a glassy like finish as a result of the smooth laydown of material.
- • Easier nozzle cleaning, what little material that does adhere is easily wiped away with a paper towel leaving a very clean nozzle.
Heat & abrasion resistance
Whilst hardened steel nozzles are ideal for printing abrasive filaments such as ones loaded with Carbon Fibre, the extreme temperatures can cause the steel to temper and soften, ultimately reducing its abrasion resistance. And then there are plated copper nozzles, able to cope easily with immense temperatures but lacking the abrasion resistance required to resist Carbon Fibre. This is where the Nozzle X comes in, a nozzle able to withstand high temperatures without softening.
By going with a one-piece all-machined construction, E3D were able to use their existing manufacturing processes to create a carefully tuned internal geometry, which provides fantastic flow response and keep the exact same geometry and compatibility as the rest of the E3D ecosystem.
Compatible with most MK8 hotends. Note that CR-10 pro has an m6-0.75 threading which is not compatible with this standard m6-1 threaded nozzle.
How to switch nozzles:
- • Put on gloves to avoid burns on fingers and hands.
- • Heat the printer to the last used material's melting point.
- • Grab the heat block with pliers to keep it steady while un-screwing the old nozzle.
- • Place that nozzle on a surface that can handle the heat.
- • Screw in the new nozzle as tightly as you can, without using excessive force which can lead to hotend damages.
- • Re-calibrate the z-axis in case the nozzle-buildplate-distance has been altered.
- • Done! Just feed in some new filament and start printing!